Domaine Gerovassiliou Malagousia, 2011

Super-rich. Super-ugly – I could be talking about any Greek tycoon; but this is a bottle of rich Greek Malagousia, with a very ugly label…

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The Malagousia grape variety was saved from oblivion in Greece through the 80’s and early 90’s by this very producer: Evangelos Gerovassiliou, I’m not going to comment on whether he can be referred to as a tycoon or even considered ugly, but I hope his dress sense is better than his taste in label design! (feel free to leave a comment if you think I’m being unfair). Malagousia produces full-bodied, low acid, aromatic wines, that can get heavy if the acidity is not managed well, but good examples can be citrusy and graceful. This one is somewhere in-between.

Yet another thick, rich, rich white wine – the third bottle of super-rich wine I’ve had in a row, which had me begin to question any tasting ability I thought I might have?! However on returning to The Good Wine Shop in Kew Village I discovered this was a favourite style of the person who recommended a few whites to me on a recent quest for a few bottles of drinking wines. The last three whites I’ve had were all from this bunch. Riddle solved and thank heaven I can rely on my tasting ability again – however limited!

This is an ‘up-front rich as Croesus’, peachy mouthful that after time eventually calms to reveal a little of that all important acidity that so very, very nearly balances the full-blown sweet peachy fruit, which I think you’ll either love or, well not hate exactly, but perhaps could only take so much of.

This is a tricky wine, delicious – yes, off-putting with its sheer sumptuousness – maybe, but at the end of the day a lovely introduction to a good example of Marlagousia; something a little more interesting than your usual Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

The Good Wine Shop £14:25

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